Have a question? Ask an Ulbrich's Expert here!
	How big should my pond be? As large as possible as larger ponds are less costly per gallon and require less maintenance. They are more stable ecologically, safer for fish and hold more lilies and other plants. We encourage new pond clients to build their second pond first. In other words, don't start out too small and without a pump or filter. The biggest complaint from first time pond builders is that they wish they had made their pond bigger.
	How much should I spend? Small container gardens with plants start at about $100 while full-size water gardens with filters and waterfalls run from around $1,000 to five or ten times that. A pond installation is really an investment that pays for itself. It returns dividends not only in year-round enjoyment but also in increased property value. When a professional installation is desired, qualify the prospect's budget and then visit the customer's site before quoting.
	Should I use a flexible liner or a preformed pond? Most times liners are less expensive and more forgiving, i.e. more adaptable to different sizes, to filter or skim and are usually too shallow to overwinter fish well.
	How deep does the pond have to be? Typical depths vary from about 18-inches to 36" for water gardens and three feet to six feet deep for koi ponds. Check local codes for depth allowance and any fencing requirements. Ponds for plants only and a few fish are better shallower as they are safer, easier to clean and plants need sunlight which deeper koi ponds inhibit.
	Do I need a filter? Clear ponds can be built without a filter, but most people use filtration to clean the pond for them, i.e. less maintenance for the owner. We recommend two filters for water gardens - A mechanical skimmer filter to protect and hide the pump and skim the pond of dust and debris and a biological filter to keep the water clear and safer for fish. Remember plants do not eat blown in dust and debris. Without a skimmer, ponds accumulate considerable bottom sludge each year, which can turn anyone away from water gardening.
	How big does the filter have to be? In general the bigger the better as bigger filters last longer between cleaning and handle large fish loads. It's best to consult with the manufacture's filter size recommendations. Skimmers are rated in pond area and biological filters in pond volume.
	How often should I clean my filter? Mechanical filters should be cleaned whenever they slow the flow of water to the pump. Smaller, in-pond filters may have to be cleaned daily, and that is why we recommend larger mechanical filters like PondSweep Skimmers. These are usually cleaned about once a week. It takes about 5 minutes to empty the net and clean the mats. Biological filters should not be cleaned except when they are so blocked that water flow is diminished. A large biological filter, like the Purifalls, is generally only cleaned once per year.
	Do I need a pump? Pumps move water to create fountains, waterfalls and move water through filters. They are highly recommended to keep your pond clean and create moving water. Splashing water looks and sounds beautiful and attracts birds like no other garden feature.
	Do I have to add fish? No, but fish do eat mosquitoes and are recommended. They are very easy to care for, help eat pond algae and can be trained to eat out of your hand. They add color and personality to any pond. Be careful not to buy too many or let them out grow the size of your pond or the filter system.
	How many fish can I put in my pond? Typical water gardens with two filters and an ecosystem can usually support 5-inches of fish for every 5 square feet of surface area. A 10' x 10' pond, with 100 square feet could therefore support about 20 five-inch fish, with some room for fish growth. Koi ponds with extensive additional filtration can usually be stocked with much higher fish loads. Remember, fish grow, but filters don't.
	How do I get rid of green water? Create a living ecosystem in your pond. Plants, filters, seed bacteria and a decorative gravel addition to your pond should eliminate most green water. The fewer fish and the less they are fed, the less nutrients there will be available for algae growth.
	How do I get rid of long string algae? Remember, string algae is a tireless pond worker, helping to keep the pond water clear and feeding fish. It is an important part of any living pond ecosystem. Good pond filters and pond care is usually all that's needed. If it becomes excessive, it can be removed by hand. There are also mold pond additives that suppress the growth of string algae. We are looking to control algae not eliminate it.
	Do I need a bottom drain? Bottom drains promote better pond water recirculation through the filters, so they keep your pond water clearer and safer for fish. They are a must for Koi ponds and recommended for any water garden, especially for water gardens over 3 feed deep. They can be added to a pond very easily if using a PondSweep skimmer.
	How do I "balance" my pond? There are many formulas promoting so many plants, fish, snails, etc. sq. ft. of pond. Some of these formulas do work as they are based on experience. In truth, nature will tend to balance any pond that is set up as an ecosystem. Harsh chemicals, like algaecides, damage the ecosystem and prevent nature from reaching a balance in your ponds. If you find your pond growing excess algae, that usually means you are "under filtered," and nature is responding, i.e. 'Balancing" your pond by adding algae to complete the filtration process. We recommend "Balancing" your pond using the filters, plants, gravel and a pump shown in our Pond Planner. This way a natural "balance" of key ecosystem elements like plants, fish, oxygen and bacteria can be achieved, while at the same time assuring a low-maintenance pond.
	Can I use rocks and gravel? Not only "can you" we highly recommend it to balance any container pond, starter pond or water garden as described in our Pond Planner. Gravel provides a huge surface area for bacteria to colonize and its nature's natural filter, especially when planted with aquatics. using inexpensive gravel cuts down the cost of other pond filters and pumps as gravel acts as a tremendous pond filter and helps establish the ecosystem. Keep the gravel layer thin (less than one-inch thick) to avoid anaerobic (low oxygen) conditions. See our Pond Design video or Pond Planner for specific rock quantity formulas. Gravel and rocks are usually avoided in deep koi ponds, as it will interfere with the flow of water into the bottom drains. True Koi ponds do not use rocks.
	How do I overwinter my fish and plants? Even in freezing climates like the Northern U.S. and Canada, fish and plants are best left outdoors to hibernate naturally. A two-foot deep pond with a surface aerator or heater to keep a hole open is sufficient for most ponds up to zone 4. Clean the pond of debris before the pond ices over. In colder climates and with larger fish, deeper is better as the warmest water (around 40°F) is denser than colder or warmer water, so it forms a "warm puddle" on the pond bottom. Don't disturb that bottom layer of warm water and turn off any bottom drains.
	What do I do with the excavated dirt? Save it! Most yards are flat or sloped away from the house, and the extra dirt can be used to create a planting berm to hide the waterfall filter and create a waterfall and/or stream running towards the house. If your yard already slopes towards the house you may need some of the dirt to terrace the pond wall closest to the house.
	What chemicals do I need?  Here's the good news and a selling point for good pond design. Very few pond chemicals are ever needed with a PondSweep Manufacturing natural pond. Unless your pond is on a well, city water must be "dechlorinated" before it is safe for fish. Beyond that a natural ecosystem as described in the PSM Pond Planner requires very little additional pond chemicals. Nitrifier bacteria is essential to jump-start the pond's ecosystem so green water can be avoided. Regular pond bacteria in dry or liquid form can be added weekly or monthly thereafter to help keep your pond cleaner. (Pond bacteria are friendly, and should never be considered or referred to as "chemical"). Long string algae is the chief exception to occasional chemical use, especially in the first year or two of pond life before the ecosystem is fully matured. We recommend Crystal Clear Clarity Max from Winston for string algae control.

Design Guides, Formulas & Checklists

How much water does my pond hold?

• Circular Water Garden: Radius (  ) x Radius (  ) x (3.14) x Average Depth (  ) x (7.50) = Gallons in Pond

• Other Water Gardens: Average Length (  ) x Average Width (  ) x Average Depth x (7.50) = Gallons in Pond

• Liner Width in feet = Maximum width of hole + (2) times the Maximum Depth = 2' * = 
• Liner Length in feet = Maximum length of hole + (2) times the Maximum Depth = 2' * = 

* Allow for 1 foot overlap around entire edge of pond. Note: One dimension (either length or width) must be rounded up to the nearest 5' increment.

• Generally speaking we are looking for flow volume - not pressure. Use as big a pipe as reasonably possible. 2" flex pipe is a good standard for most water gardens.
• To calculate pipe length - measure from pump to falls keeping in mind the route to pump you will take and add approx. 20% for sweeps and bends.
• Pipe Size Guidelines (Maximum water in GPH)
• 1" pipe = 1200 GPH / 1-1/2" pipe = 3000 GPH / 2" pipe = 4800 GPH / 3" pipe = 9000 GPH / 4" pipe = 12,000 GPH

Pump, Skimmer, and biological filter selection criteria:

• Skimming Considerations - the pump volume in GPH should be 10-15 times the pond surface area in sq. ft. For example a 20'x10' pond would require a 2000-3000 gph pump for optimum skimming.

*If you use maximum pump allowed, the mats may need more frequent cleaning.

• Biological Filtration - all of the water in a pond should go through the biological filter system a minimum of once every two hours. Smaller ponds should change water once per hour. Ponds can be recirculated many times per hour (4-8x) for better filtration. Larger ponds usually require less circulation because the water chemistry is more stable in a larger body of water. 

• Waterfall Flow Rates - for an attractive and natural looking waterfalls we recommend a flow rate of 1000gph for each foot of waterfalls width as measured at the falls.
   
• Pumping Heights & Distances - The further distance a pump has to lift water, the less water that pump can move. Head height is computed by measuring feet of vertical lift required from the top of pond surface to the highest height you need to lift the water. Also add 1' of head height for every 10 linear feet of piping and 1' of head height for every 90 degree elbow in your plumbing.
   
• Short Term vs. Long Term Costs - Compare energy consumption. Compare overall energy consumption vs. initial cost of pump. Energy efficient pumps often cost more up front but often pay for themselves many times over in energy savings.
   
• In SUMMARY- Consider all of the above aspects of your water garden then select the pump that meets the largest gph requirements at the proper head height. For larger installations consider using multiple pumps and skimmers.